Day 3 Hike from Hualapai Hilltop to Supai

We left the hotel about 6:30 a.m. Linda looks quite chipper with her pack on, although we're both a bit worried about the heat.

2008-05-27T08:13:52Z

elf1
We left the hotel about 6:30 a.m. Linda looks quite chipper with her pack on, although we're both a bit worried about the heat.

Driving along Historic Route 66 was so much more pleasant than the Interstate. We hardly passed anyone else for 2 hours. We were right up close to the side of the road so that we could see s ...

2008-05-27T08:13:53Z

elf1
Driving along Historic Route 66 was so much more pleasant than the Interstate. We hardly passed anyone else for 2 hours. We were right up close to the side of the road so that we could see s ...

The previous picture is a bit fuzzy because this is what they really looked like through my telephoto lens. I wasn't even sure until I got home that they were really antelope and not deer.

2008-05-27T08:13:53Z

elf1
The previous picture is a bit fuzzy because this is what they really looked like through my telephoto lens. I wasn't even sure until I got home that they were really antelope and not deer.

We drove through miles and miles of this. Very pretty, in an entirely different way from mountains or coastlines.

2008-05-27T08:13:53Z

elf1
We drove through miles and miles of this. Very pretty, in an entirely different way from mountains or coastlines.

We started catching glimpses of the Grand Canyon in the distance beyond the grass, scrub, tumbleweeds, and profuse orange flowers that I think were a variety of paintbrush. This was one of s ...

2008-05-27T08:16:59Z

elf1
We started catching glimpses of the Grand Canyon in the distance beyond the grass, scrub, tumbleweeds, and profuse orange flowers that I think were a variety of paintbrush. This was one of s ...

We finally reached the trailhead at Hualapai Hilltop. (Pronounced hoo AL a pie or hWALL a pie; heard both). It wasn't what we had expected; maybe a hundred vehicles, possibly more, in a very ...

2008-05-27T08:13:54Z

elf1
We finally reached the trailhead at Hualapai Hilltop. (Pronounced hoo AL a pie or hWALL a pie; heard both). It wasn't what we had expected; maybe a hundred vehicles, possibly more, in a very ...

Linda (in yellow) cruises out along the parking lot to get a good look at our descent.

2008-05-27T08:13:55Z

elf1
Linda (in yellow) cruises out along the parking lot to get a good look at our descent.

Then heads back in the other direction among all those cars.

2008-05-27T08:13:55Z

elf1
Then heads back in the other direction among all those cars.

We were a bit bemused by this rather worn-looking horse just cruising around loose in the parking lot. Learned much later that the Havasupai turn their horses loose to recover in the grassla ...

2008-05-27T08:13:55Z

elf1
We were a bit bemused by this rather worn-looking horse just cruising around loose in the parking lot. Learned much later that the Havasupai turn their horses loose to recover in the grassla ...

Here we are, all packed up, hot already, and about to plummet off the cliff behind us into the canyon below.

2008-05-27T08:13:56Z

elf1
Here we are, all packed up, hot already, and about to plummet off the cliff behind us into the canyon below.

The trail works its way down the cliff to the right and then goes a lonnnng way out the bottom of the canyon towards the upper right of the photo. I believe that this is Hualapai Canyon at t ...

2008-05-27T08:13:56Z

elf1
The trail works its way down the cliff to the right and then goes a lonnnng way out the bottom of the canyon towards the upper right of the photo. I believe that this is Hualapai Canyon at t ...

Looking down one of the switchbacks with Linda looking out into the canyon. The trail was wide and comfortable, although somewhat steep in places. My fear of heights never kicked in, but the ...

2008-05-27T08:13:56Z

elf1
Looking down one of the switchbacks with Linda looking out into the canyon. The trail was wide and comfortable, although somewhat steep in places. My fear of heights never kicked in, but the ...

Here you can see one of the switchbacks--the trail comes in from the right about a third of the way up the photo, goes nearly all the way across, then switches back towards the bottom center ...

2008-05-27T08:13:57Z

elf1
Here you can see one of the switchbacks--the trail comes in from the right about a third of the way up the photo, goes nearly all the way across, then switches back towards the bottom center ...

Looking down on the rest of the main descent into the canyon. You can see the trail if you know where to look. Or you can look at the next photo--

2008-05-27T08:13:57Z

elf1
Looking down on the rest of the main descent into the canyon. You can see the trail if you know where to look. Or you can look at the next photo--

--where I have pointed to some visible sections of the trail. That's a very wide trail and that's a very long way down. The first section descends about 900 feet over about a mile and a half ...

2008-05-27T08:13:57Z

elf1
--where I have pointed to some visible sections of the trail. That's a very wide trail and that's a very long way down. The first section descends about 900 feet over about a mile and a half ...

Me, still looking fresh, partway down the switchbacks.

2008-05-27T08:13:57Z

elf1
Me, still looking fresh, partway down the switchbacks.

More trail switchbacks.

2008-05-27T08:13:58Z

elf1
More trail switchbacks.

Same switchbacks, different angle. You can see people in several places along the trail.

2008-05-27T08:19:50Z

elf1
Same switchbacks, different angle. You can see people in several places along the trail.

Here's looking back up towards the trailhead where we started. The trail is mostly out of sight to the left of this photo, but then cuts across the cliff face to the top of the plateau (Hual ...

2008-05-27T08:20:41Z

elf1
Here's looking back up towards the trailhead where we started. The trail is mostly out of sight to the left of this photo, but then cuts across the cliff face to the top of the plateau (Hual ...

Following most of the horses and mule trains, and some of the hikers, came the Havasupai trail dogs. They apparently just decide that it looks like more fun to follow someone up 8 miles of t ...

2008-05-27T08:58:41Z

elf1
Following most of the horses and mule trains, and some of the hikers, came the Havasupai trail dogs. They apparently just decide that it looks like more fun to follow someone up 8 miles of t ...

Mule trains (in both directions) were quite common on Monday when we were heading in on Monday, but we didn't see many when we came out on Wednesday.

2008-05-27T08:13:59Z

elf1
Mule trains (in both directions) were quite common on Monday when we were heading in on Monday, but we didn't see many when we came out on Wednesday.

Everything in the village comes in one of three ways: By human power, by horse or mule, or by helicopter. That's it.

2008-05-27T08:58:42Z

elf1
Everything in the village comes in one of three ways: By human power, by horse or mule, or by helicopter. That's it.

The pack horses and mules mostly ran ahead of the one or two men on horseback, whose encouraging whistles and yells followed them all the way up the trail. The animals didn't much care wheth ...

2008-05-27T08:13:59Z

elf1
The pack horses and mules mostly ran ahead of the one or two men on horseback, whose encouraging whistles and yells followed them all the way up the trail. The animals didn't much care wheth ...

The mule trains consisted of a combination of horses and mules.

2008-05-27T08:14:00Z

elf1
The mule trains consisted of a combination of horses and mules.

Pack-animal Linda waits for the four-legged pack animals to go by.

2008-05-27T08:14:00Z

elf1
Pack-animal Linda waits for the four-legged pack animals to go by.

Looking ahead at another switchback. You can see that we've already come a long way down from the upper lands but still have a long way to go down.

2008-05-27T08:22:13Z

elf1
Looking ahead at another switchback. You can see that we've already come a long way down from the upper lands but still have a long way to go down.

We were lucky to be in the desert at a time when wildflowers were still in bloom. I tried to identify many of them after the fact with my Field Guide to the Grand Canyon, but had no idea wha ...

2008-05-27T08:14:00Z

elf1
We were lucky to be in the desert at a time when wildflowers were still in bloom. I tried to identify many of them after the fact with my Field Guide to the Grand Canyon, but had no idea wha ...

Another view of the Prince's Plume (Stanleya Pinnata).

2008-05-27T08:14:01Z

elf1
Another view of the Prince's Plume (Stanleya Pinnata).

Some of the trail switchbacks were wide, shallow switchbacks; others were steep and frequent.

2008-05-27T08:14:01Z

elf1
Some of the trail switchbacks were wide, shallow switchbacks; others were steep and frequent.

About halfway down the switchback part of the trail, there was this wall. And something dead behind it that you could smell distinctly for many yards in both directions. I glanced briefly be ...

2008-05-27T08:14:01Z

elf1
About halfway down the switchback part of the trail, there was this wall. And something dead behind it that you could smell distinctly for many yards in both directions. I glanced briefly be ...

Here's Linda on yet another switchback with the cliff in the background. From here it looks much worse than it actually felt on the trail.

2008-05-27T08:14:02Z

elf1
Here's Linda on yet another switchback with the cliff in the background. From here it looks much worse than it actually felt on the trail.

Same place on the trail, but different view with the camera. I kept trying to show the depth of the canyon, but it doesn't show up well on camera.

2008-05-27T08:14:02Z

elf1
Same place on the trail, but different view with the camera. I kept trying to show the depth of the canyon, but it doesn't show up well on camera.

The mule trains just whipped by on the switchbacks.

2008-05-27T08:14:02Z

elf1
The mule trains just whipped by on the switchbacks.

As I said, both mules and horses served as pack animals.

2008-05-27T08:14:03Z

elf1
As I said, both mules and horses served as pack animals.

Sometimes there'd be a horse or mule on a lead or roped together, but not mostly. I wondered whether maybe those were the younger ones still learning their jobs.

2008-05-27T08:14:03Z

elf1
Sometimes there'd be a horse or mule on a lead or roped together, but not mostly. I wondered whether maybe those were the younger ones still learning their jobs.

We're finally nearing the end of the really steep mile and a half, and now we'll be descending another 900 feet but gradually over 6 and a half more miles along canyon bottoms.

2008-05-27T08:14:03Z

elf1
We're finally nearing the end of the really steep mile and a half, and now we'll be descending another 900 feet but gradually over 6 and a half more miles along canyon bottoms.

I find the desert to be quite beautiful. Sharp contrasts in textures and stark colors show up so much better here than just around town.

2008-05-27T08:14:03Z

elf1
I find the desert to be quite beautiful. Sharp contrasts in textures and stark colors show up so much better here than just around town.

I'm still looking perky. This just proves that I've been down here with an actual pack. Lots of hikers passed us with just water (because the rest of their goods were coming in on mule train ...

2008-05-27T08:14:04Z

elf1
I'm still looking perky. This just proves that I've been down here with an actual pack. Lots of hikers passed us with just water (because the rest of their goods were coming in on mule train ...

Ellen and Linda both prove that they've been here.

2008-05-27T08:14:04Z

elf1
Ellen and Linda both prove that they've been here.

We're getting past the switchbacks, although definitely still going down. Here, the canyon is wide with an obvious valley floor, before it closes in on us again later. The trail changed colo ...

2008-05-27T08:26:16Z

elf1
We're getting past the switchbacks, although definitely still going down. Here, the canyon is wide with an obvious valley floor, before it closes in on us again later. The trail changed colo ...

I saw several Century Plants (agave utahensis) blooming. And they looked so much different depending on whether they had the sky behind them, or the red cliffs, or dark shadows-- so I took l ...

2008-05-27T08:14:05Z

elf1
I saw several Century Plants (agave utahensis) blooming. And they looked so much different depending on whether they had the sky behind them, or the red cliffs, or dark shadows-- so I took l ...

So here's the same plant, different backdrop. The havasupai, at least historically, roasted these plants and ate them.

2008-05-27T08:14:05Z

elf1
So here's the same plant, different backdrop. The havasupai, at least historically, roasted these plants and ate them.

We're REALLY ALLLMOST at the end of the steeper downhill and our first mile and a half. Now we hike wayyy out down this canyon until it hits Havasupai Canyon, where we'll turn left to get to ...

2008-05-27T08:26:59Z

elf1
We're REALLY ALLLMOST at the end of the steeper downhill and our first mile and a half. Now we hike wayyy out down this canyon until it hits Havasupai Canyon, where we'll turn left to get to ...

This is the only place in the country where mail is still delivered by mule train. These are all US Postal Service boxes. I took my postcards with me but neglected to take my address list, s ...

2008-05-27T08:14:05Z

elf1
This is the only place in the country where mail is still delivered by mule train. These are all US Postal Service boxes. I took my postcards with me but neglected to take my address list, s ...

And, behind the horses, more Havasupai trail dogs.

2008-05-27T08:14:06Z

elf1
And, behind the horses, more Havasupai trail dogs.

The trail along most of the canyon bottom consisted of ground-up red sandstone--in other words, sand. You ever walk in dry, loose sand? It was very hard for me. We looked for places along th ...

2008-05-27T08:14:06Z

elf1
The trail along most of the canyon bottom consisted of ground-up red sandstone--in other words, sand. You ever walk in dry, loose sand? It was very hard for me. We looked for places along th ...

Now we're finally in the canyon bottom, looking at fairly gradual 900 feet of descent over 6.5 miles. Linda keeps moving ahead.

2008-05-27T08:58:46Z

elf1
Now we're finally in the canyon bottom, looking at fairly gradual 900 feet of descent over 6.5 miles. Linda keeps moving ahead.

Saw several cacti in bloom. I believe that this is desert prickly pear, although there are several varieties that are very similar except for the number of spines and other subtleties.

2008-05-27T08:58:46Z

elf1
Saw several cacti in bloom. I believe that this is desert prickly pear, although there are several varieties that are very similar except for the number of spines and other subtleties.

In particular on the canyon bottom, but even on the steep upward switchbacks, those mule trains really hauled through there, sometimes at a full run. The dust clouds were something else--and ...

2008-05-27T09:26:26Z

elf1
In particular on the canyon bottom, but even on the steep upward switchbacks, those mule trains really hauled through there, sometimes at a full run. The dust clouds were something else--and ...

Annnnnnd the inevitable trail dog.

2008-05-27T08:58:46Z

elf1
Annnnnnd the inevitable trail dog.

We were always grateful when the trail meandered into the shadows of the cliffs. It was quite warm; by this time it was around 11:00.

2008-05-27T08:58:47Z

elf1
We were always grateful when the trail meandered into the shadows of the cliffs. It was quite warm; by this time it was around 11:00.

Just so many wonderful red rocks with the bright blue sky!

2008-05-27T08:58:47Z

elf1
Just so many wonderful red rocks with the bright blue sky!

Linda waiting, as usual, for me to catch up after taking a ton of photos of wonderful red rocks with the bright blue sky.

2008-05-27T08:58:47Z

elf1
Linda waiting, as usual, for me to catch up after taking a ton of photos of wonderful red rocks with the bright blue sky.

Trail. Cliffs. Sky. Plants. Linda.

2008-05-27T09:26:38Z

elf1
Trail. Cliffs. Sky. Plants. Linda.

Rocks. Cliff. Sky. Jeez, I could've spent all day taking pictures. ... Oh, yeah, I almost did, except for a few stops to fix some really minor blistering kinds of things on my feet. Fortuna ...

2008-05-27T08:58:47Z

elf1
Rocks. Cliff. Sky. Jeez, I could've spent all day taking pictures. ... Oh, yeah, I almost did, except for a few stops to fix some really minor blistering kinds of things on my feet. Fortuna ...

The erosion patterns in places were wonderful.

2008-05-27T08:58:48Z

elf1
The erosion patterns in places were wonderful.

Purple flower. It's not in my Field Guide.

2008-05-27T08:58:48Z

elf1
Purple flower. It's not in my Field Guide.

Helicopter. They (or it) buzzed past all day.

2008-05-27T08:58:48Z

elf1
Helicopter. They (or it) buzzed past all day.

It was such a lovely hike, with the green plants, red cliffs, blue sky! Did I say that already?

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
It was such a lovely hike, with the green plants, red cliffs, blue sky! Did I say that already?

These flowers were all folded up in the heat of the day, and covered with trail dust.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
These flowers were all folded up in the heat of the day, and covered with trail dust.

A spiky plant thing with interesting white flowers. Doesn't seem to be in my Field Guide.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
A spiky plant thing with interesting white flowers. Doesn't seem to be in my Field Guide.

Close-up of the flowers.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
Close-up of the flowers.

I thoguht that this was whole different type of cactus because the flowers were different colors, but apparently the desert prickly pear also comes in pink.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
I thoguht that this was whole different type of cactus because the flowers were different colors, but apparently the desert prickly pear also comes in pink.

These seed plumes had the most lovely purplish tint and soft texture. I think they are Apache Plume--or maybe not.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
These seed plumes had the most lovely purplish tint and soft texture. I think they are Apache Plume--or maybe not.

The canyon walls came in closer around us and we didn't see a lot of valley floor again until we were approaching the village. A lot of the trail was along rocky dry washes. But we could ima ...

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
The canyon walls came in closer around us and we didn't see a lot of valley floor again until we were approaching the village. A lot of the trail was along rocky dry washes. But we could ima ...

Another desert flower, probably a cliffrose.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
Another desert flower, probably a cliffrose.

The cliffs right along the trail weren't nearly 1000 feet high--the canyon went down in tiers--but they'd still be a bit hard to climb in a flash flood.

2008-05-27T08:58:49Z

elf1
The cliffs right along the trail weren't nearly 1000 feet high--the canyon went down in tiers--but they'd still be a bit hard to climb in a flash flood.

Plants, white rocks, red rocks, sky. Nifty nifty nifty.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
Plants, white rocks, red rocks, sky. Nifty nifty nifty.

And, among the rocks, things found ways to root and grow.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
And, among the rocks, things found ways to root and grow.

Here we have a bit of a view of even more canyon ahead of us. The rocks and colors and shapes of the cliff and texture of the trail changed constantly as we continued.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
Here we have a bit of a view of even more canyon ahead of us. The rocks and colors and shapes of the cliff and texture of the trail changed constantly as we continued.

It was a beautiful walk.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
It was a beautiful walk.

Flowers growing atop a big boulder.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
Flowers growing atop a big boulder.

Same flowres.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
Same flowres.

Here I am with my new walking stick--er., that is, trekking pole. I found it extremely useful in going downhill, and even useful on steeper uphills for keeping my balance when I was tired an ...

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
Here I am with my new walking stick--er., that is, trekking pole. I found it extremely useful in going downhill, and even useful on steeper uphills for keeping my balance when I was tired an ...

And here I am again.

2008-05-27T08:58:50Z

elf1
And here I am again.

So interesting, how different rock layers weathered.

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
So interesting, how different rock layers weathered.

Sometimes the trail split, and we'd decide to take different directions. On this stretch, I could look down on Linda where she stood in the creekbed.

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
Sometimes the trail split, and we'd decide to take different directions. On this stretch, I could look down on Linda where she stood in the creekbed.

More rocks and sky, you know how it is--

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
More rocks and sky, you know how it is--

The helicopter whips by. Here, it seems to be hauling an empty line. We saw it several times come by with large things attached to the line, although we couldn't see what. Apparently it ofte ...

2008-05-27T09:03:54Z

elf1
The helicopter whips by. Here, it seems to be hauling an empty line. We saw it several times come by with large things attached to the line, although we couldn't see what. Apparently it ofte ...

Scenery

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
Scenery

More of the same unidentified spiny plant with white globular flowers.

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
More of the same unidentified spiny plant with white globular flowers.

We loved every speck of shade we could find for a quick break from the broiling sun.

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
We loved every speck of shade we could find for a quick break from the broiling sun.

How long has that little tiny rock been caught in that crevice?

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
How long has that little tiny rock been caught in that crevice?

Lunchbreak! Not a very long one; we munched on trail mix, beef jerky, and dried fruit.

2008-05-27T08:58:51Z

elf1
Lunchbreak! Not a very long one; we munched on trail mix, beef jerky, and dried fruit.

Linda at lunch.

2008-05-27T08:58:52Z

elf1
Linda at lunch.

Me with some actual real grapes that Linda carried down. And my boot off, for foot examination again. I look bright red--I might really have been. It was hot.

2008-05-27T08:58:52Z

elf1
Me with some actual real grapes that Linda carried down. And my boot off, for foot examination again. I look bright red--I might really have been. It was hot.

Trail. Rocks. Sky.

2008-05-27T09:27:55Z

elf1
Trail. Rocks. Sky.

And out in themiddle of nowhere, what appeared to be a recycling bin. There was some litter along the trails, but it wasn't awful.

2008-05-27T08:58:52Z

elf1
And out in themiddle of nowhere, what appeared to be a recycling bin. There was some litter along the trails, but it wasn't awful.

Where the canyon curved, the water often carved out an overhang like this one.

2008-05-27T08:58:53Z

elf1
Where the canyon curved, the water often carved out an overhang like this one.

The cliffs in our canyon within a canyon came in quite close to us.

2008-05-27T08:58:53Z

elf1
The cliffs in our canyon within a canyon came in quite close to us.

Here's Linda demonstrating the scale of some of the cliffs.

2008-05-27T08:58:53Z

elf1
Here's Linda demonstrating the scale of some of the cliffs.

Here's the trail junction where Hualapai canyon meets Havasu canyon. Together they form one of the major branches of the Grand Canyon.

2008-05-27T08:58:54Z

elf1
Here's the trail junction where Hualapai canyon meets Havasu canyon. Together they form one of the major branches of the Grand Canyon.

This is our first glimpse of Havasu Creek, or The Blue Water (Havasupai means Blue Creek People). The stunning aqua color of the creek comes from the high calcium carbonate content. At this ...

2008-05-27T09:05:21Z

elf1
This is our first glimpse of Havasu Creek, or The Blue Water (Havasupai means Blue Creek People). The stunning aqua color of the creek comes from the high calcium carbonate content. At this ...

The creek is fed by a number of very active springs and grows larger as it goes down the canyon. Here, it would be fairly easy to wade across in a few steps. The sides of the canyon are line ...

2008-05-27T08:58:54Z

elf1
The creek is fed by a number of very active springs and grows larger as it goes down the canyon. Here, it would be fairly easy to wade across in a few steps. The sides of the canyon are line ...

The rock formations along the creek's canyon were quite varied.

2008-05-27T08:58:54Z

elf1
The rock formations along the creek's canyon were quite varied.

Linda enjoys her Gatorade.

2008-05-27T08:58:55Z

elf1
Linda enjoys her Gatorade.

What a gorgeous day!

2008-05-27T08:58:55Z

elf1
What a gorgeous day!

Our first views of the village edges. Fenced fields with horses and livestock.

2008-05-27T08:58:55Z

elf1
Our first views of the village edges. Fenced fields with horses and livestock.

These very obvious standing rocks above the village are called the Wii Gl'iiva by the Havasupai. I have no idea what that means. Probably "standing rocks."

2008-05-27T08:58:56Z

elf1
These very obvious standing rocks above the village are called the Wii Gl'iiva by the Havasupai. I have no idea what that means. Probably "standing rocks."

Boy, the sign for "cold drinks" next to one of the first buildings we came to sure caught our attention! So we went inside.

2008-05-27T09:07:25Z

elf1
Boy, the sign for "cold drinks" next to one of the first buildings we came to sure caught our attention! So we went inside.